Visiting Chile

Portillo, la Laguna del Inca

Portillo sits in the heart of the southern Andes a mere 40km (25 miles) from the base of Cerro Aconcagua, the highest point in the Western Hemisphere. Portillo translates to “narrow pass” which aptly describes the main corridor between Chile and Argentina. The pass was first crossed by mules and horses and later by the Trans-Andean international train, reputed to be one of the most spectacular rail journeys in the world. Once the international road was built, the train service became uneconomical and obsolete and ended in the mid-1970s.

The hotel was built at 2,890m (9,480ft), 1km below the Chilean customs station at Los Libertadores and 6km from the Argentine border. It is 69km (43 miles) from the bottom of the pass at Los Andes and 149km (93 miles) from Santiago. Many guests also come from Mendoza in Argentina. Note that this remote location means that there is nowhere else to stay or eat in the region except at Portillo’s own facilities.

Storms approach from the southern Pacific Ocean. Suddenly cooled by the extreme elevation and unable to penetrate the Andean barrier, the heavy clouds dump loads of snow throughout the area. The weather conditions are either clear and sunny or snowing and blowing with few days finding a compromise. The high altitude dryness insures light snow and no rain and provides ideal conditions for making artificial snow. In 1991, Portillo thus installed South America’s only snowmaking system. The resort may operate weekends outside of the normal season if snow conditions permit.

The landscape of the region is completely treeless and has a barren, lifeless appearance. Although you are unlikely to see the small foxes that sniff about at night, their tracks are found everywhere in the virgin snow. Andean condors are seen daily soaring along the cliffs and chutes of Portillo.

The Laguna del Inca is one of the very few lakes in this remote region of the Andes. The lake is so named because the Inca Illi Yunqui is said to have buried his princess there after she was tragically killed on a hunting trip. According to the legend, at that moment the lake’s water “turned emerald, dyed by the color of the eyes that the son of the Sun could no longer awaken.” It is also said that on certain still winter nights you can hear the low moans of the heartbroken Inca.

Avalanche at Portillo Ski Resort

Portillo has the continent’s best avalanche warning system. There is a flagpost in front of the hotel’s pool on which the current danger level is indicated with either a red, yellow, or blue flag (explained on a large board in the hotel). In addition, rope and sign closures are often painstakingly set for skiers’ protection, an uncommon service in South America.

Many of the local skiers seem to favor the steep hikes in the chutes above the Va et Vients. While a great view of Aconcagua can be had from above the Roca Jack, there are better places to ski that don’t require so much exertion for so few turns. The best examples are the lake descents from the Va et Vients. Of the two, Condor provides a slightly longer vertical drop, drier snow (especially in the morning), and greater variety. Conditions are optimum when the lake is frozen and someone has already “broken trail” back to the lifts. On the Roca Jack side, return to Conejo via a traverse across the face of the last knoll above the lake surface.

Another excellent option is the Cancha del Tren. This can be spotted and the route planned by looking right while riding the Juncalillo chairlift. It is the obvious snowfield that fans out to the road with the old railroad tunnel crossing the middle (big air). Access this run with a high traverse from the Condor lift to a point below the border checkpoint where the highway is crossed. At the bottom, cross the road again to return to the Juncalillo chair.

Because of its high elevation and steep terrain, Portillo is not a good place for cross-country skiing. Avalanches frequently threaten the few areas where nordic skiing might be possible. The only terrain really apt for this activity is the frozen lake surface or the area around the Los Libertadores customs station.

Portillo Ski Resort

Portillo’s slopes are split into two unintegrated halves. To access the Juncalillo (west) side, you need to skate over to the base of the new quad chair which will take you to the base of the Roca Jack. The Plateau chair on the east side provides the easiest and quickest access to skiing though. It loads just a few meters from the hotel and ascends to the top of a wide bench under foreboding cliffs.

The recommended way to ski Portillo is to start on the Juncalillo side in the morning. The dawn illuminates the upper east-facing slopes of the Roca Jack first, softening the pistes with the early morning sun. After lunch, explore the Plateau side as it softens and warms.

The best beginner run is Canarios. It is close enough to the hotel for security but far enough away that less successful efforts are not visible to the critical sundeck crowd. Intermediates will find their greatest pleasure on Juncalillo which rolls over shelves and through valleys. The Los Túneles section of the run passes over two long tunnels which the government had to build over the road because the ski run “was here first.” Powder and corn snow are handily tested on the sides of this run before venturing above to some of the more advanced runs.

The clear favorite at Portillo for advanced skiers is the Roca Jack. In the heart of winter, the Roca Jack is surrounded by feathery new snow. On a good spring day, the north side will have glittering corn snow, the middle slushy bumps, and the south side firm, dry wind pack. Another recommended advanced run is Garganta, a steep chute that opens into a wide bowl north of the Plateau chair.

Expert skiers will need a full week to explore Portillo’s vertical secrets. The greatest opportunities lie to the south of the Roca Jack. A high traverse left (away from the lake) leads to a series of four major ridges where numerous possibilities of varying width and pitch await. Skiers who are lulled into believing there’s no more untracked powder simply are not looking hard enough.